Devbagh beckons

Karnataka's undiscovered gem, Devbagh is a destination with a difference. Pristine beaches, casuarina plantations and an eco- friendly environment beckon the adventurous tourist. SUSHEELA NAIR writes about this romantic getaway which offers complete privacy and solitude. "THE beach of Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that the beauty of Nature is not a mirage, but reflects the joy of the Infinite within the bounds of form and thus draws us to lose ourselves in it". Thus wrote Rabindranath Tagore when he was in Karwar in the early part of this century. To experience what Tagore meant, one has to visit Devbagh island in Karwar.

The very name "Devbagh" conjures up visions of a realm inhabited by celestial beings. But it is a deserted, uninhabited island which is a 10-minute boatride from the Kodibagh jetty on the backwaters of the Kali at Karwar. It first appeared as a tiny speck on the horizon. Our motorboat skimmed the surface of the river under the Kali bridge and sped to our destination - Devbagh beach resort. Soon we could see the whole island. Considered as Karnataka's undiscovered gem, Devbagh is a tourist destination with a difference. Promoted by Jungle Lodges and Resorts, an automonous institution under the Karnataka Tourism Department, Devbagh beach resort is a veritable paradise with its pristine beach, blue skies and its gentle casuarina plantations which herald a welcome to the visitor. Vinay Luthra, executive director of Jungle Lodges and Resorts, told us: "We have opened up this region and today it beckons the adventurous tourist who is keen on nature and conservation and is in search of a soul stirring experience in an eco-friendly environment."

Tucked amidst a casuarina grove with eight ethnic log huts built on stilts and with thatched roofs, Devbagh remains unexplored. Locally available materials like bamboo, cauarina logs and coir carpets, have been used abundantly. Even the trunks of wind- felled casuarina trees have been converted to make-shift chairs. The only concrete structure is a canteen run by a private contractor. In the distance, the sea glimmered like a skein of silver and we could hardly wait to take a dip. Instead, we were ushered in for a sumptuous lunch at the Gol Gur, a thatched roof dining hall facing the sea. After lunch, I curled into a hammock under casuarina trees and settled down with a good book. I went into a trance as it were, listening to the whisper of the swaying trees and the blissful music of the rising waves.

In the evening, we opted for a boat ride along the Kali. It was an exhilarating experience. Our boatman Prahlad pointed out Kumargad Island in the distance. On the island is a Narasimha Swamy temple. The rough sea deterred us from going there. On our return we saw dolphins playing hide and seek in the sun warmed waters. We landed at Devbagh just before sunset.

As the sun began its rapid descent down the horizon, I set out on a stroll along the huge expanse of glistening sand, speckled with shells of all sizes, shapes and hues. Flocks of seagulls were seen flying over the blue skies uniting the land, sea and sky like a pearl necklace. With the first cold nip in the air, the winter migrants began a spectacular descent on the shoreline. Some of them swooped down and came up triumphant with a fish struggling in their beaks.

By nightfall, the murmuring sea had turned an inky blue and dinner awaited us on our return to the Gol Gur. After a relaxed day, we retired to bed. The rhythmic lapping of the waves in the moonlight, the surf unfurling and the trees swaying and billowing in the breeze lulled us into sleep.

We woke up to watch the sun rise magically through the morning mist. We took a boat in the backwaters. The urgency of time has no meaning here. We had perfected the art of doing nothing, lazing around on the beach, basking on the golden sands, picking up shells or chasing crabs or just gazing at the clouds. We discovered that Devbagh is a romantic hideaway offering visitors long hours of privacy and solitude. There are no mandatory fixtures like sleek shopping malls, glitzy entertainment. And there is no television, no air-conditioning, no swimming pool, no room service except for tea and coffee. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are part of the package deal of Rs. 1500 a day for a couple with a special discount for honeymooners. The beach is fairly clean and we hardly saw any plastic bag or waste paper lying around. "Tourists are discouraged from bringing plastic," said Deepak Kaul, resort manager. His staff pick up all non-biodegradable garbage. Visitors are cautioned not to carry food and litter the place.

Devbagh Beach Resorts was initially set up by the Forest Department as part of the eco-tourism development on the land belonging to the Karnataka Forest Development. Subsequently, it was handed over to Jungle Lodges and Resorts (JRL), pioneers in spearheading the concept of eco-tourism in Karnataka. Running a chain of eco-tourist resorts in hill stations and wildlife sanctuaries in Karnataka, JRL incidentally bagged the National Tourism Award for promotion and commitment to eco-tourism. Conforming to the spirit of eco-tourism, only local villagers are employed here. JRL has involved the displaced villagers in a Village Forest Committee and also arranged for their resettlement and rehabilitation. Despite all efforts to check nature's fury, soil erosion continues to plague the island. The delicate water table is also a cause of concern. Ram Mohan Ray, managing director of JRL, told us: "We are viewing tourism cautiously and enforcing regulatory measures for controlled visits of day tourists and the number of tourists staying on the island in order to protect and perserve the fragile bio-ecological system of the island. Any overcrowding will lead to environmental damage. We also plan to introduce a host of water sport activities." With mammoth plans on the anvil, Devbagh will sure wean away the sun worshippers from Goa and it will not be long before it emerges as the destination of tomorrow.