Enveloped in plantations of spices, Carmelia, a resort in the high ranges of Kerala, will bring serenity to the soul, writes AKBER AYUB When you arrive here, you feel it in the air. Positive, joyous vibes, a kind of rhapsody envelopes you. At an altitude of 4000 feet in the high ranges of interior Kerala, in the lap of the mighty Western Ghats, lush, vibrant green is the predominant colour here. The reason for this is varied. The russet earth underneath, the forty odd rivers that originate in the Western Ghats, the copious rainfall and a marked absence of any industrial activity. Enveloped in verdant plantations of pepper, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon, these mountains are a resplendent green all year round, the reason the crisp air here is so invigorating and braced by a medley of aromas. My destination this time was Carmelia; a resort nestled on a cozy hilltop amidst acres of lush plantation. Another property of 1600 acres about 22 kms away forms an annexe to the resort. 157 kms from Cochin, the drive along the NH-49 to Carmelia is a treat. Driving past the rubber country of Thodupuzha, with miles of neatly lined rubber trees, you learn how rubber is harvested the milky sap oozing from angular gashes on the trunk, drips into collecting pots, which is later processed. As you begin the gradual climb to the uplands, it is pineapple next. The road soon winds past some of the innumerable rivers in Kerala with quaint inns by the riverside adding to the charm. You catch glimpses of blue mountains in the distance. At Moolamattam, take a short deviation to visit the hydel project or turn left to the Thekkady / Idukki road. The undulating hilly terrain then takes you to the Idukki arch dam, a magnificent parabolic structure that impounds the water from the river Periyar here. In the late afternoon, with the monsoon on the verge of breaking on the Kerala coast, the sky is grey with pregnant clouds and a swift breeze brings with it a wintry chill and you are compelled to hop out of your car. The placid water in the reservoir stretching far into the distance gleams like a sheet of glass. On the other side, the dam plunges deep into a forested valley. Sheer granite cliffs rise majestically upward on its either end. Flocks of birds sweep across in tandem. Bird calls, the caterwaul of crickets and the whistle of the wind are the only sounds... We drive on towards Vandanmedu. Half an hour later I am seated in the cozy reception lounge of Carmelia. Cardamom and tea make up almost the entire plantation here with pepper vines clinging to the innumerable shady trees forming the next major crop. Day two begins with a trek along a winding nature trail early in the morning. Six-foot high cardamom bushes are all around. The toot and tootle of birds and the rustling leaves provide soothing sound effects. There are also creepers of vanilla, cocoa, and tall elegant trees of cloves and cinnamon. Nearing the cottages at the end of the trail are clusters of tree-bearing fruits like orange, mangosteen, butter fruit, lichees, Chinese guava and rose apple. After a breakfast of appam and stew in the open-air restaurant, it’s time to head for Calvary, a peak about 23 kms away that offers a magnificent view of the surroundings and the Idukki reservoir. Kattappana, a quaint, hilly town falls on the way. Spices are auctioned here once a week. Shops and godowns brimming with spices are everywhere. The mild afternoon saw us at the Thekkady tiger reserve, 25 kms away. A cruise on the extensive Periyar lake atop a double decker boat is a must here. Grassy meadows vied with wooded forests for attention on either side, as the boat glided quietly on the placid lake. Herds of trumpeting elephants, curious clans of wild bisons, sambhar and a pack of red foxes made up the wild life on view. Day three dawned bright and sunny after intermittent night showers and it was back to Thekkady, this time for an early morning guided trek in the forest. Not much of wild life on view except for giant flying squirrels, bears and the great Indian hornbill but trekking in a dense wooded forest at this hour is an experience you are not likely to forget soon. Back at Carmelia and after a quick lunch of some superb seafood we head for the annexe. About 23 kms on the road to Munnar (which lies 80 kms from Carmelia), the annexe is a sprawling, extensive estate of tea and cardamom. An expansive private lake with boating and angling, an adventurous drive along narrow dirt tracks hugging the hill side to the windy, rugged summit offering a breathtaking view of the landscape all form part of the package for guests. A penchant for innovation is evident in some outlandish noveltips you find here like the tree top wood cabin and the quaint underground cave room; both tastefully furnished once you are inside. The next day, after a rejuvenating Ayurvedic massage, then a hot shower followed by a dip in the pool, I packed my bags. It was time to bid adieu to a magnificent country and a great holiday. ˙